Un Rêve Devient Réalité

The last time I was in Burgundy was around 25 years ago.  In fact, back then I was here a couple of times within three years.  Both times, I tried to stay at a charming looking hotel in a little village just north of Nuits St. Georges called Vougeot - not that I remembered the name all these years later.  Each time, either because the hotel was full or too expensive, I didn't get to stay there.  

So, when we were planning this trip to Burgundy and looking for a place to stay between Beaune and Dijon, it was almost destined that Jo had found an article about Vougeot in a cycling post and was interested in seeing it.  When we searched for a place to stay, up came Hotel Le Clos de la Vouge.  It was THAT hotel.  It has taken a very long time for me to fulfill my dream of staying here but finally it came to pass.  Further, over the years, the hotel has been updated and, when we checked in today, it became very apparent that it is one of the most lovely places I have ever stayed in.  I am so lucky!  My dream became reality!

On the short drive from Beaune to Vougeot, we following the Route des Grands Crus, a wine route which passes through some of the world's most famous wine names:  Pommard, Montrachet, Meursault, Volnay, to name a few.  We had downloaded an app on our phones called Balades en Bourgogne.  It has a number of self-guided tours on it including a very good walking tour of Beaune plus the driving one we used yesterday.  As we approached each village, the app automatically started "talking" about the particular village and its history and wines.  Sometimes, it was a bit too much detail for me but it was very informative.

Since I was here the last time, "les climats" in the region have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site.  Basically, they are small parcels of land usually surrounded by a stone wall.  The name often given to them is "clos" (a closed in area) such as Clos de Vougeot.  The gates to enter them usually have their name on them.  From the WHS website, the description is:

The "climats" are precisely delimited vineyard parcels on the slopes of the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune south of the city of Dijon. They differ from one another due to specific natural conditions (geology and exposure) as well as vine types and have been shaped by human cultivation. Over time they came to be recognized by the wine they produce. This cultural landscape consists of two parts. Firstly, the vineyards and associated production units including villages and the town of Beaune, which together represent the commercial dimension of the production system. The second part includes the historic centre of Dijon, which embodies the political regulatory impetus that gave birth to the climats system. The site is an outstanding example of grape cultivation and wine production developed since the High Middle Ages.

The countryside looks a bit like a patchwork quilt with these different wine plots.  

We walked around Vougeot to see the Clos de Vougeot, sipping a Vougeot chardonnay as we went along.  We were so happy that the sun had finally come out.  It is easiest the best day so far.

Back in Vougeot, there was a roller blade half marathon starting at 3:30 which would go from here to Dijon, some 25 km north.  First, however, the people doing the full marathon who had started in Dijon had to pass through.  By the time we got to where the race was being held, most of the accomplished roller bladers had already passed by and some of the less experienced participants were arriving.  There was a hill the racers came down as they approached the village and then a sharp turn to the right.  We saw at least 6 or 7 people wipe out - some seriously - and there were at least 5 ambulances plus lots of "moto-medics" (medics on motorbikes) as well as nurses and doctors available to assist the "fallen".  It was quite a spectacle!

Once all that excitement was finished, we headed back to our hotel - about 100 m away - and sat on the patio in the sunshine sipping our drinks (wine for me).  What a treat! 

A Change of Scenery: Beaune and the Hotel Dieu

Friday morning, we left Alsace and headed south and west to Burgundy.  The drive took about 3 1/2 hours and we passed by Mulhouse, Belfort, and Besancon.  With Jeff's help and the car's GPS, we found our hotel, about a 5 minute walk from "centre ville" without a problem.  The bonus was that for most of the day the sun was out and the temperature actually hit a whopping 19 degrees!  

After lunch, where we actually sat outside, albeit under an awning, we toured the famous Hotel Dieu.  The cost, which included an audio-guide, was only 8.50 Euros.

From Wikipedia and other sources, here is some info about the Hotel Dieu, a UNESCO World Heritage site followed with photos I took of our visit: 

The Hospices de Beaune or Hôtel-Dieu de Beaune is a former charitable almshouse in Beaune, France. It was founded in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin, chancellor of Burgundy, as a hospital for the poor. This was when Burgundy was ruled by Duke Philip the Good. The 100 Year's War had recently been brought to a close but marauding bands continued to roam the countryside, pillaging and destroying, provoking misery and famine. The majority of the people of Beaune were declared destitute.  Nicolas and his wife, Guigone de Salins, responded by building a hospital and refuge for the poor. The hospice was consecrated on 31 December 1452.  In conjunction, Rolin established the "Les soeurs hospitalieres de Beaune" religious order.

The Hotel Dieu actually provided care until 1971, when a new hospital was built.  Today,  visitors can admire the beautiful structure and also many of the interior rooms, including the large and lovely Salle des Povres, or Great Hall of the Poor. The architecture is stunning, and displays in several rooms illustrate daily life for the patients and staff over the centuries. During the audio-guided tour, you also see a pharmacy and a laboratory, as well as the kitchen where meals were prepared for the patients. Costume displays illustrate how the fashion in habits and nursing clothes have changed over the years. 

At the end of the tour, there is also a wonderful display of tastevins, or silver wine tasting cups which traditionally given to little boys in Burgundy at the time of their first communion or at weaning.

The Hotel Dieu owns a significant number of vineyards.  Each year since 1859, on the 3rd Sunday in November, a world-renowned wine auction is held, with all proceeds supporting the current hospital and the maintenance of the Hotel Dieu.  The Hospices Civils de Beaune also includes a nursing school, helping it ensure high quality medical personnel.

Salle des Pôvres, or Great Hall of the Poor

Above and below:   the Kitchen

Above and below:  the Pharmacy

The Hotel Dieu is also just across the street from the Place de la Halle, where a market is held every Saturday so that is where we headed the next morning.  The market, which was both in the square and nearby streets plus in the market hall, offered the usual amazing selection of French products - meats, sausages, cheeses, vegetables, spices and herbs plus household goods and clothing.  There were even several stalls selling chickens from Bresse (a city in France near the Alps).  .Chickens from here are famous for their blue feet - not sure what makes them blue, however.  There was even a dixieland jazz band to entertain us, at least before the rain started and drove us away to shelter!

Colourful Even in the Rain

Well, we decided if you can beat 'em, join 'em and ventured out today in spite of the inclement weather - at least it wasn't bucketing down - and headed for one of my favourite places in Europe:  the Alsace Wine Road.  I have blogged a lot about it so won't repeat all of that.  Even though it was a bit dull and gray, the colourful houses brightened up the landscape and the villages never fail to impress.  

From Rhinau, we headed toward Ebermunster via Diebolsheim and then across the Rhine plain to the Alsace Wine Road.  For one of the first times, we got a great picture of the model in the middle of the roundabout in Diebolsheim of little Alsatian children playing on a teeter-totter. 

We continued on heading toward the Vosges.  After driving up the hill to see Haut-Koenigsburg (medieval castle high up - hence the name, haut), we went to Riquewihr where we stopped for lunch.

We started heading back but made a stop in Ribeauville to walk around there.  These villages are two of the most famous ones along the wine route.  They are exceedingly charming and almost look like movie sets rather than real!

From there, we headed back to Rhinau, about a 45 minute drive, to have dinner and get organized.  We leave for Beaune in Burgundy tomorrow.

Rain, Rain Go Away!

It is tough to blog when pretty much all you are doing is sitting in a house watching the extremely inclement weather outside!  I don't know how many times I have come to Alsace in May but I know it is a lot.  There has never been a time when the weather has been cold and rainy for this long.  Okay, maybe for a day or two but that it is.  I arrived here on April 29th and there has been one relatively nice day since then.  Sure, it is okay for grocery shopping and poking around a few shops but it is certainly nothing to write home about - literally and figuratively!  Maybe I should just do a blog about the products in French supermarkets or the amazingly low prices in Aldi's.

For example, yesterday it was drizzling so we (my neighbours from Victoria who are staying here with me) just headed over to Germany to get some groceries and have lunch.  Here in France, it was a holiday commemorating V-Day (Victory Day) for the end of WWII.  We were pretty confident that day isn't a holiday in Germany!

As we came back it was only drizzling so Jeff and Jo set off for a walk around the village here after we got back.  While they were out, it started bucketing down so they came back totally soaked.  

Wednesday, however, was relatively better so they rented electric bikes from the tourism office here and rode to Strasbourg for the day.  While the weather was cold, it at least wasn't raining.  The trip is about 70 km return on a dedicated bike path for almost the entire way.  The route runs along a canal and, from what they reported, it is very beautiful.  Here are a couple of photos Jeff posted on Facebook from that journey.  

While they did that, I stayed home and read.  See what I mean about having nothing of substance to blog about?  It should get better, however, as we are heading to Burgundy tomorrow for a 4 day road trip.  Regardless of the weather, I should have something to write about regarding that trip.  It will take us to Beaune, a small wine village and then to Dijon before we return to Alsace.  Also, today started off looking a bit clearer so we might venture over to the Alsace Wine Road where there are some very pretty villages that photograph well even in dull weather.  That being said, in the time it has taken to write this blog, the sky has become overcast and dark.  Looks like more rain is on the way.  Time will tell, I guess.

So, please bear with me.  I will start writing blogs when it gets better here.  I am hoping this weather pattern, which is covering all of Europe, will break soon - or it will "break" me!  Meteo France is saying it is one of the coldest and wettest Mays on record.  I believe that!

A Visit to Europa Park

Yesterday (Saturday), my Swiss friends and I went to Europa Park for the day.  It is the largest amusement park in Germany and second only to Disneyland Paris in Europe in popularity.  It was my first time there and I loved it.  There was so much to see and do.  First off, however, some background information.

Europa-Park was opened in 1975 and it covered 16 hectares (40 acres) of land.  It is run by the Mack family, who have produced vehicles since 1780, circus wagons since 1880 and roller coasters since 1921.  It counted 250,000 visitors in the first year and 700,000 in the second.  By the year 2000, the number of visitors had risen to 3 million, and its hotels had been booked to nearly 98% of their capacity. 

As the park expanded, country-themed sections were added. 

Overview of the park, showing themed areas such as Griechenland.

The first one was "Italy", opened 1982. The Alpenexpress "Enzian" and Schweizer Bobbahn rides opened in 1984 and 1985, respectively.  The "Europe" theme was pursued further with the opening of "Holland" (1984), "England" (1988), "France" (1990), "Scandinavia" (1992) and "Spain" (1994) sections.

The park opened during the winter season for the first time in 2001/02. 

In 2011, there were 4.5 million visitors, and, by 2012, the park had expanded to encompass an area of 90 hectares, featuring eleven roller-coasters, five themed hotels, and more than 3,000 employees.  In 2012, Roland Mack announced investments in excess of EUR 60 million, the largest yearly investment in the park's history. The total sum invested in the park is estimated at close to EUR 700 million.

Ed Euromaus, the park mascot developed by MackMedia, had 4D films based on his character in 2011 and 2015.

On 3 June, 2017. Europa-Park opened the 'Voletarium' attraction. The attraction is the biggest flight motion simulator theatre in Europe.  It features a queue line with multiple pre-show elements culminating in the main ride section: a film showcasing European landmarks which lasts for 5 minutes. The ride is the most expensive single ride investment to date at the park.

In May, 2018, a blaze broke out at the park in a backstage area and quickly spread to the adjoining "The Pirates of Batavia" attraction. The ride is a dark, enclosed water ride that opened in 1987 and was built by Mack Rides. It is located in the "Netherlands" section of the park, which, along with the adjoining Scandinavian section was severely damaged.  The park reopened the following day with the Pirates attraction, as well as the Scandinavia and Netherlands sections closed. They are now currently being reconstructed.

Rust, where the park is located, isn't far from where Sue and Keith live.  You just have to take the 5 minute ferry (free) across the Rhine and drive about 7 km from there to the park.  As we approached the park, and even from a fair distance away, the main thing you see is an enormous roller coaster.   Further, as we had arrived around 11 am, it wasn't too far to walk from the car to the entrance.  And, there are rolling walkways, like you see in airports, if your car is parked a long way from the entrance.  There must have been 15 ticket booths at the entrance but only three were open that morning.  

The entrance fees are relatively affordable:  45 Euros (about $60 CAD) for children and seniors and 52 Euros (about $75 CAD for adults (age 12+).  The entrance fee includes all the attractions and rides so, essentially, once you are inside, the only additional costs are for food, drinks and souvenirs.  By comparison, adult tickets for Disneyland Paris range from 58 Euros to 87 Euros depending on the day or level of ticket you want.  

The only problem with our visit yesterday was the weather.  It began cool, which was fine, but, after about 2 hours there, it started raining and that made it most unpleasant and certainly curtailed what we managed to see.  Thankfully, even after noon, the crowds weren't bad.  We continually remarked what a nightmare it would be to come here in the summertime.  We were lucky as most of the things we did had no line-ups at all. 

On arrival, we took the EP Express, basically a train (and not express at all!) which goes completely around the park.  It was a good way to orient ourselves.  The train station at the park entrance is Alexanderplatz and, upon returning to it, we got off and found ourselves in the German-themed section.  There is actually part of the old Berlin wall there (Roger remarked that it was probably the only authentic thing in the park!)  This area is also where the Voletarium is located (the flight simulator experience).  The consensus among the five of us (three adults and two children) was that it was the best "ride" of the day.  I had no idea what to expect but it is thrilling and spectacular.  You get the sense you are flying over Europe - dipping and swooping high into the sky and then back down to the ground.  I would come back to the park just to have that experience again!  We had planned to go back at the end of the day but one of the kids ran out of energy so we didn't get to it.  

After that, we just wandered around the park - and there is a lot to see.  You certainly need more than one or two days here.  Mind you, because of the weather we didn't manage to get to some of it.  The France and Italy-themed sections are very pretty and reminiscent of those countries.  In fact, all of the sections we saw, the designers seem to have identified all the iconic things one would associate each of the countries.  For example, there are the striped poles (Venice) and the Printemps (department store in Paris) roof in one of the restaurants in the France section.  The Greek section is blue and white; there are thatched buildings in the England part and, of course, a mountain chalet in the Swiss part.

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The entrance to "Ireland" - to damp to visit, however

There were other attractions that we took in including an ice show called Paddington.  It was okay but not fabulous.  We also visited "Piccolo Mondo", a ride intended for kids that takes you through Italy - seeing references to Leonardo da Vinci, Michaelangelo, and Venice Carnival.  Another one of the good attractions was a 4D movie that took you on an animated night tour of the park.  I had seen 3D movies but didn't know what a 4D one was until. as we were watching it, the seats dropped or tilted, air was misted or blown at you.  .I guess the 4th D is sensation.

By the time we had taken in those and a few other attractions, the kids were getting tired (stimulus overload, probably) and we were all damp.  So, about 4 pm we headed back to the car.  It had been a very good day!  In the parking lot, near the car was another car from CH, I was surprised to see a BC licence plate in the side window.  Further, the registration had only expired in 2018!  It seemed strange to see it here.

Back "home", we snacked on Swiss cheeses and a baguette before having another tarte flambee dinner.  So Alsatian!   

Random Observations

The problem with committing to do a blog is that it presupposes that you are actually going to have interesting things to write about.  Sometimes, it doesn't work out like that.  While I am hoping in a few days I will have something to say, currently things have been very uneventful.

I got to Alsace late last Monday afternoon after a mostly uneventful but very long journey from home.  I think it was about 22 hours door to door.  It could have been a bit shorter if I had not relied on the info in an app on my iPhone.  I use TripIt and I like it a lot.  If you aren't familiar with it, it is very helpful for sorting out travel plans.  Whenever you get a email confirming a hotel, a train reservation, flight information or a voucher for a car rental, you simply forward it to the app and it automatically builds your itinerary for you.  I have always assumed, incorrectly as it turned out, the information entered is correct.  I had checked it to see my arrival time in Frankfurt so I could know what train to book.  It showed 1 pm and, based on that, I reserved my train ticket south for 4 pm.  Buying it in advance and committing to a specific train saved me a lot.  The 4 pm train only had one change which was good and the fare was so good I purchased a first class ticket for about 1/2 of what a second class ticket would be.  So, according to TripIt, I would have about two hours at the airport - plenty of time in case the flight was delayed as well as to clear customs, get my luggage, and make my way to the train station which is located at the airport.  When I flew to from Victoria to YVR, the young woman sitting beside me started chatting.  She was also connecting to the Lufthansa flight and she told me that we would be arriving at 11 am.  Hmm!  That meant I'd have about 4 hours to wait.  Sure enough she was right.  Note to self:  double check the info TripIt enters. That was a good learning.  However, I did finally arrive and Sue was waiting for me as planned.  Whew!  The long journey was done.

I spent a pretty lazy the first couple of days here.  My friends are getting ready to go on vacation so it was not like I wanted (or needed) to go sightseeing right away.  Hence, nothing to blog about. 

Wednesday, we headed over to Ettenheim which is on the other side of the Rhine (and in Germany) from Rhinau, where I am in France.  It is a typical Germany village.  Below are some of the photos I took that day while Sue was having her hair done.

It's hard to read this but it is a clinic for dogs to have physiotherapy, acupuncture and laser therapy!

Now this was interesting, at Sue's hair salon, the sinks are wheeled to the client rather than like home where the basins are usually in a row.  Not sure exactly how this works but Sue was surprised when I told her I hadn't seen anything like it.

Thursday, we went to Offenburg (further north) where I picked up my rental car.  It is a Ford (not my favourite) but it has all the "bells and whistles" including GPS and it is an automatic, very unusual for Europe.  It is a treat to drive except the sensors are particularly sensitive and seem to beep if I get even close to anything.

Then, Friday, things started to get busier.  I took Sue and Keith to the Orschweier Bahnhof (train station) where they took a train north to Frankfurt airport for their flight the next day. 

Then, my friends, the Jekers, arrived from Switzerland to stay for the weekend.  First up was going to the Super U (grocery store) to buy the makings for tarte flambees.  It was fun for them to see all the different products that they can't get in Switzerland.  I was surprised to hear that.   We spent the evening cooking, mainly Alina did that, enjoying tarte flambees (Alsace's famous "pizza"), playing music and chatting in several languages!

Tomorrow, weather permitting, we head to Europa Park, Germany's largest amusement park.  Now, that should be something to blog about!